A Peek inside the Designer's Studio: Christine Mhando of ChiChia London

Born and raised in Lagos, Nigeria I've always had a special place in my heart for all things African; the weather, the food, the colours and the beautiful fabrics (some of the stuff you don't see on TV - it's not all corruption and poverty). As a designer myself with Renaissance of our Roots I love to see other designers that are also using African fabrics - there will come a time when African print won't just be a trend but be norm, you heard it here first!

I first mentioned ChiChia London during fashion week; I saw the collection at the Untold Fashion show on Day 4 and got to chat with the designer of the brand, Christine Mhando. See how we got on after the jump:

MHIINYC: Tell us about growing up in London? Do you go back to your hometown in Tanzania often?   
Christine Mhando: My family moved to London when I was 10 (my dad got a job working for the BBC World Service) so I went to High school and had my teen years here in London. It was quite a normal one. Once we moved to London we’d go back to Tanzania at least every 2 or 3 years but in recent years I’ve been going back 2 or 3 times a year. Love it!! 

MHIINYC: How did you get interested in fashion? 
CM: From when I was very young I was always fascinated when I saw really well dressed women. My mum always made/makes an effort with her appearance so I guess I was influenced by her. My aunt (mum’s younger sister) used to make clothes and I’d watch her turn a piece of fabric into a dress. I thought ‘Wow, it’s like magic!’ So I started making clothes for my dolls. 

MHIINYC: What was it like studying at London College of Fashion and then later Kent University?
CM: I went to study at London College of Fashion from when I left high school at 16 and that’s where I learned to sew and pattern cut. LCF was where I learned the construction side of fashion but as a teenager going to school in the heart of London can get a little bit distracting so I decided to complete the last 2 years of my degree at Kent institute of Art and Design (now known as Kent University) and that’s where I really found my “creative” feet, the course leaders were really good at encouraging us to accentuate our strong points.

 Khanga maxi dress from 'Mwangaza'. I love that it has pockets

MHIINYC: What inspires you when you are designing your collections?
CM: I’m inspired by many different aspects but I would say first and foremost, the fabrics and prints.   

MHIINYC: Walk us through the process of designing one of your collections, your last collection ‘Made in Dar’ for example
CM: With “Made in Dar”, I started with around 20 khanga and vitenge prints (not all prints eventually made the cut – no pun intended!) that I had bought during a sourcing trip in Dar Es Salaam, locked myself in a room with all the prints laid out on the floor, did a few sketches and some modelling/ draping on the stand to explore shapes and silhouettes. Every single first sample from the collection I made myself and then the rest of the production was done in Dar Es Salaam.

 Yellow lace print Khanga dress from 'Made in Dar'

MHIINYC: What do you think of the new ASOS Africa range using fabric from Kenya and Tanzania? Do they do the fabrics justice?
CM: If I had a penny for every time I’ve been asked about ASOS Africa in the past 3 months, I could have saved up enough to fly to Africa and back [laughs].The African print trend is at its biggest ever so it makes sense for large companies such as ASOS to make this accessible to their customers. I’ve only just seen the collection and think it looks great, I love the jacket but can’t buy it of course for obvious reasons... A friend of mine bought it though then asked me if it was disloyal of her... I may just borrow it from her [laughs] 

 The ASOS Africa blazer

MHIINYC: Do you look up to any designers?
CM: Lots of great designers are bringing out fantastic collections season by season. I love the ones that always keep it new and you can never guess what they’re going to do– too many to mention .Oh yeah one... Have you seen Alexander McQueen’s Winter 2010 collection? Phenomenal!  

MHIINYC: Do you have a moodboard where you sketch ideas?
CM: Ohh how I wish I had time for moodboards (I have them in my head). I do have a sketch book with lots of messy doodles of things that are supposed to look like clothes though

 Print button up tunic with bead detail from 'Succulent'

MHIINYC: If you weren’t designing clothes what else would you be doing?
CM: I’ve always wanted to learn to play the drums, maybe I can join a band... more realistically I’d probably be a stylist or something 

MHIINYC: Do you see yourself doing ChiChia for Men in the future?
CM: Not in the near future but who knows. I would do a childrenswear range first though, far more fun and a lot cuter 

MHIINYC: What plans do you have for the future? 
CM: I would love for ChiChia to eventually become a worldwide recognised brand with stores and concessions all over the globe 

MHIINYC: Do you have any advice for upcoming designers?
CM: Always stay true to yourself!!

 Frill sleeve dress with beading detail and print skirt from 'Understated Regal'

Quickfire questions: 

Describe your personal style
Eclectic 

What are your five must-have wardrobe pieces?
Right now: Jeans, animal print, leather separates, dresses, dresses, dresses!!! (actually Christine that’s technically six but it’s ok because I HEART dresses too) 

Do you spend more money on shoes or bags?
Oh dear... probably shoes these days  

Would you ever wear underwear as outerwear?
Depends. Not JUST underwear though, no 

Name something you do when you’re alone that you wouldn’t do in front of others
Google myself (*Blushes*) (I do too, I even have Google Alert setup – it’s ok we’re the cool ones)

This printed summer Jacket from 'Mwangaza' is the latest addition to my lust list

ChiChia London is available to buy at The Look Boutique, Unique Boutique and The Laden Showroom. Check out their website and Facebook page and they also tweet @ChiChiaLondon.

♥ It's actually Christine's birthday today, have a fabulous day today from My Heart is in New York ♥

A Peek inside the Designer’s Studio: Hermione de Paula

As promised here’s an interview I conducted with Hermione de Paula, do forgive me for its tardiness. I was privy enough to be invited to see her Autumn/Winter collection during London Fashion Week (here) and also to be able to meet Hermione herself backstage afterwards. I ask her about life as a designer and those rumours of a stripper past…

Tell us about where you grew up? Did you always want to be a designer?
Designing was always a path I was naturally drawn towards. I grew up in Devon where I was always searching for creative projects. Whilst I was at school I even created my own little business customizing t-shirts. I loved glamorous and visually pleasing things; I used to make my mother add bows and bells onto me and my dresses – a signature which still sometimes creeps into my collections today!

Did you have a mentor or do you remember meeting a designer that shaped the path of your career?
I’ve had the privilege of working with so many inspiring designers and individuals (including Giles Deacon and the late Alexander McQueen), but Elisa Palomino at John Galliano is someone who really stands out. She was a great mentor and an amazing influence; she taught me so much about the spatial awareness of prints.

One of Hermione’s specialities is making her own prints. I ask her how she made the prints she used for Polly Crystalline – her AW collection and she explains a process that involved taking pictures of flowers that had been frozen in a massive freezer she borrowed from the man who owned the local shop next door (I wonder what he thought she was up to).

 

Polly Crystalline AW10

I read something about a stripper past… details please? Would that explain the quiet sexuality in your pieces and the illusion of nakedness?
I’m not sure I could quite call it a ‘stripper past’, although yes, I did work at Spearmint Rhino’s but as a waitress! At the time it was my way of funding my own label, and I can’t pretend I didn’t enjoy the bright lights and elaborate exhibitionism! I do definitely try to translate a quiet sexuality in my work; this is more prominent in my (present) collection. I like to convey the illusion of nakedness through both my patterns and my garment designs; it adds a certain sexual yet subtle feminine delicacy.

What is it about unconventional women that inspire you?
Unconventional women have such a fascinating beauty, I find there’s an unconscious elegance which surrounds the eccentric and unconventional, a certain obscure quality which is often completely overlooked in favour of more obvious beauty ideals.

Las Venus - SS10

What is a typical day like for you?
Long! I get to the studio early and check emails then I used to work on creative stuff in the afternoon - prints/designs. In the madness running up to the show I was working closely with the pattern cutters and seamstresses and finalising show details and press pieces. I am very social so a glass of wine with friends in the building is standard. Kristin Vicari, the photographer who has art directed all my press material, has just moved in with an amazing photography studio in the basement so you can usually find me down there after hours plotting something with her!

Are there any downsides to being a designer? What is your most favourite aspect about what you do?
I don’t think there any many downsides, although it can be incredibly stressful working with tight budgets - I can’t wait to have no constraints and sew everything with gold thread… However I do feel very lucky to be able to be doing what I really love everyday and feel really honoured to have received the Vauxhall Merit as it will give me a chance to shine and hopefully the platform for my business to grow!

Who would you say is a typical ‘Hermione de Paula’ woman?
The type of woman whose motto in life is: ‘I probably shouldn’t…but I will anyway!’

If you could dress one celebrity/personality who would it be?
Grace Jones!

If you weren’t a women’s wear designer what else would you design?
Possibly mini printed dog outfits with my dog Edward as my muse!

Will we ever be able to dress our men in ‘Homme de Paula’ or will you stick to just women’s wear?
At the moment I’m very happy with womenswear but I’m always interested in exploring further creative possibilities, so who knows?  I share my studio with two great friends of mine who are in the middle of launching their new menswear label ‘Braille’, I would to collaborate and do some prints for them!

Do you have any advice for upcoming designers?
Be patient, stick to what you’re good at, and just follow your own distinct style and jump head first!

 Polly Crystalline AW10 - catwalk photo by Christopher Dadey

What are your 5 must have wardrobe pieces?
High heels, high heels, high heels, high heels…and mascara, is that 5?

(So we’ve established that we could be very good friends. But just to be sure…) Flats or heels?

Definitely heels, EVEN in the snow! I actually managed to badly injure my ankle the other day due to platform shoes a wicker basket and Mariah Carey…yikes!

With regards to movie genres; Romantic comedy or Thriller?

Both, it just depends on the mood I’m in

Name something you do when you’re alone that you wouldn’t do in front of others

Shouldn’t a girl have some kind of mystery?!

Hermione de Paula’s S/S ’10 Las Venus range is now stocked at Browns Focus on South Molton Street www.brownsfashion.com. Check out Hermione's website: http://www.hermionedepaula.com, and her blog: http://i-heart-hermione.blogspot.com/

All images (unless stated otherwise) were taken by Kristin Vicari for Hermione de Paula.